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j'ai contacté Brad pour lui expliquer ce qui s'est passé et les idée et autres suggestions pour améliorer ou corriger ce que j'ai pu louper ou fait de travers.
Le point central du problème étant( le verouillage de l'écrou sur la vise de réglage ..
il faut serrer la toute petite vis bien commeil faut .. l'huile aide pas ... et contrairement à ce que je pensais , c'est pas de l'alu les écrous mais de l'acier .. donc .. à mon avis j'y suis pas allé assez franco ( 270° )
sur le cyl6 ... on a accès à zobi , c'est la misère donc .... à revoir
il me propose de me rembourser ( beau geste ) et si je veux réessayer de me renvoyer des consommables ( vis , cales, etc )
faut pas m'en proposer plus
voilà son retour :
First, thank you for your feedback and efforts. Second, since it did not work for you, tomorrow I will refund your payment. Third, if you are still interested in sorting this out, I will send you some new collars, screws and shims (free).
Here are my thoughts:
1. It it is critical that the installation steps be followed precisely -- this includes "hand tightening" before using tools. Seems silly, but for some reason it will throw the adjustment off if the hand tightening process is not followed before using tools. You probably did follow the directions precisely, but I mention this just in case.
2. It sounds to me that on intake #6, the collar is not firmly attaching to the adjustment screw. This may be because the small cap screw was not fully fingertightened before using the 2 mm tool to tighten another 270 degrees. You have to overcome the small threadlocker patch on the screw with the fingert tightening. Note that once finger tight, you can go a bit past the 3/4 turn or 270 degrees with a tool so it is snug. The head of the 2 mm screw may round out if you go 360 degrees, but you are a good mechanic and will be able to feel it. The threads of the 2 mm screw will not harm the collar which is made of a very hard spring steel -- not a soft metal. If you are up for it, try to see if you can lock the collar to the adjustment screw by tightening the 2 mm screw a bit more. There is room for judgment call here.
3. Another reason for too large a gap on the intake #6 might be a worn rocker bushing or rocker shaft that has play in it. When firmly finger tightening the adjustment screw down to 0 gap rock and jiggle the adjustment screw and rocker back and forth to take out all play. If all play is not taken out, the adjustment will be too wide in the end.
4. Some people forget to tighten with the torque wrench at step 10 of the instructions -- to preload the valve adjustment screw. It sounds like you did that but I just mention it.
If you are willing to keep trying, I suggest you skip over intake #6 and do the rest using SNAPGAP --keeping these suggestions in mind. If they all work well and you use the same technique on intake #6 but it still fails, there must be something wrong with your adjustment screw or rocker arm bushing or rocker arm shaft. Another option is to try it out on an engine on an engine stand to see whether how you are doing it gives good results -- if so, again it might be your particular intake #6 on that engine.
Last, I have tried Torx Head screws in place of the 2 mm cap head and they just did not work as well. Also, I have used threaded shaft collars with two flats on it (that was my first version prototype) but it was too hard to find the little screw entrance to tighten it. I also tried to manufacture a levered shaft collar but no one could make one so small. Finally, I tried many many locknuts and lock nut combinations but none were satisfactory.
I too am stubborn and persistent so I would like to get to the bottom of this with you.
It is very tough accessibility on the 964, so I admire your patience.
le système me plait . donc j'insiste .
la question sera donc "quand" ?
j'ai bien envie de ressortir le moteur ( ou pas ) pour avoir plus de place et surtout pas me niquer le dos à travailler par terre .
et en profiter pour faire un peu de nettoyage ..